Marmolada - Punta Penia

Marmolada Ascent with a Mountain Guide – The Queen of the Dolomites

The Marmolada (3,343 m) is the highest mountain in the Dolomites and one of the most fascinating ascents in the entire Alpine range. Known as the Queen of the Dolomites, it offers a unique experience among glaciers, majestic walls, and spectacular panoramic views over the whole Dolomites.

Climbing the Marmolada is a great classic of Dolomite mountaineering, ideal for those who want to experience high-altitude terrain accompanied by a mountain guide, in a striking environment rich in history.

What level is required to climb the Marmolada?

The ascent of the Marmolada takes place in a glacial environment and on mixed terrain, with sections of ice, snow, and rock.

A good level of physical fitness and some basic mountain experience are required. Technically, the climb is not very difficult, but conditions greatly influence the level of difficulty: at the beginning of the season, the route is mostly on snow, while towards the end of the season, exposed ice can make progression more demanding. Compared to other mountains, such as the 4,000 m peaks of the Alps, the Marmolada is a shorter ascent, but it still includes technical sections, such as the via ferrata along the ridge leading to the summit.

How does the Marmolada ascent take place?

The main routes to reach Punta Penia, excluding the standard ski mountaineering route or the South Face, are two:

• Normal route via the glacier
• Via ferrata along the West Ridge

The easiest ascent is via the glacier, which nevertheless requires the use of proper mountaineering equipment to cross the glacier safely.

An excellent option is to ascend via the West Ridge via ferrata and descend via the glacier, creating a beautiful panoramic traverse.

Overnight at Capanna Punta Penia

It is possible to stay overnight at Capanna Punta Penia, the highest mountain hut in the Dolomites. As the name suggests, the hut is small and basic, with no showers or running water: a sleeping room, a dining room, and little else. The toilet is located in an external hut just a few steps from the edge of the South Face.

This is exactly what makes the hut so special: unlike the now-luxurious mountain huts of the Dolomites, staying here means reliving true mountaineering as it once was. Between laughter, card games, and the authentic atmosphere, the experience is unforgettable. You may also be able to admire what are likely the most beautiful sunrise and sunset of your life.

Book your Marmolada ascent

Contact us to organize your Marmolada ascent with a mountain guide and experience the thrill of reaching the highest peak in the Dolomites.